Make sure to not adjust any of your lasers homing positions or you could lose your registration when you place your new tag in to be etched. This will leave a nice template hole to place your dog tag into. This will allow you to see what your text is actually going to look like before using it on a tag.Īfter you cut the part, remove the cut out rectangle from the bed, leaving the remainder of the board taped to the bed. Finally, make the blue lines of your text a low power cutting pass that will lightly etch your chosen material. Set the red lines to a fast speed with a very low power so they do not cut or etch at all. Using your laser cutter control software, turn the black lines in the Inkscape template to cut lines using the setting you would normally use to cut your chosen template material with your own laser cutter. Get a piece of spare thin wood or cardboard (I used some scrap 1/8" birch I had) and tape it down inside your laser. Note I had to convert text to path to have the letters and numbers import at this time.To make sure everything stays lined up, we are going to start by cutting a template. What I have been doing is exporting my CAD drawing to BMP, and them importing that into LaserDRW, however it is not very accurate. My question is if there is a way to import a CAD file into LaserDRW so that I can cut it accurately. Note they are all treated as one operation. I am new to laser engraving / cutting, and am using the cutter mainly for cutting knife handles. Unless I am missing something, which is very possible. Don’t have the greyscale enabled for me at this time. I do have some stiffer that works a bit different.īy the way, here is a test for different Alpha values Inkscape Screenshot and then Glowforge workspace. At the highest speed and lowest power, it makes a pretty deep slash, at least the softer stuff. I’ve noticed that it is very hard to score 2 oz. That said, they will be tweaking the settings, so what works today might be different from later. It cuts and engraves beautifully, if a little drab and dull in the grey material category! For example, 0.095 chipboard from Fancy Feast catfood boxes. I know that materials can vary among the various samples you are attempting to laser, but I hope to have done the heavy lifting by then and you can have a narrow window to test out on the particular samples you have. Perhaps by the time you have your Glowforge I’ll have tested and charted a bunch of non-ProofGrade for your convenience. In my laser’s software I can specify the RGB values so I could do thousands but the difference between 200/210/210 (RGB) and 200/210/220 is hard to see visually Otherwise you’ve got 100 colors in your stack to assign power/speed settings to and can’t tell which one is which I walk through the process of using Inkscape with my LaserDRW extension to create a design then engrave and cut it on a cheap Chinese laser cutter (K40).The. Not sure how you’ll do that in the GF.) By making the box color and setting the parameters right away you don’t lose track of similar colors. (In my laser software it shows a color/operation stack on the right and as I add colors to the design they pop up in the stack. Then color each box’s outline and set the power/speed right then. So when you set it up, make them all black strokes. But you’ll end up with a ton of colors with shades that are going to be close to each other. You don’t need a fill (at least on other machines) as the engrave of the stroke color will engrave everything inside the boundary of that color’s box. So you need a file with about some different colored boxes for the stroke and then make the fill black.
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